Day 7: Jackson to Billings

This is a day I've looked forward to for the whole trip. I'm starting at the southern end of Teton National Park, enter Yellowstone through the southern entrance, ride along the east side to the Park and exit through the northeastern entrance. From there, over the Beartooth Scenic Byway and end with a room in Billings. Great hopes have given way to disappointment.

Don't get me wrong. The scenery was fantastic. For example, here's a great view of the Tetons at the start of my ride.

And a little ways up the road I saw my first of many herds of bison along the road. They are hard to make out in the background. But I'm not getting any closer. These are huge animals with bad tempers.

Once I got into Yellowstone the scenery got better while the traffic got worse. I guess it is to be expected. Here is Lewis Lake. I bet if the sun were out it would mirror the sky.

And a little way down the road, Yellowstone Lake was on the other side of the road. You can see some sulfur fumes coming from the edge of the lake on the other side.

Unfortunately, that is the last of the photos from the parks. Shortly after this picture was taken the rain started and never let up the rest of the trip. Of course the people in RV's dragging SUV's behind them had no trouble stopping in the middle of the road to look at the bison, while I stood behind them in the rain. Or the construction area that was so long and torn up that I picked up grit in my front forks. Now they are seeping fork fluid. Fortunately, this is not a serious problem. I'm not leaking much fluid. Just enough to keep the toes of my boots waterproof! HA

The ride over the Beartooth Scenic Byway was absolutely beautiful, and scared the crap out of me at the same time. At one point the top of the ski lift ended on the road where I'm driving. There are no guardrails and the road is wet. With the little fluid leaking from the forks I'm certain on one of the hairpin turns I'm going to do a "Thelma and Louise" over the edge. I'd love to do this road again, but in the minivan when I can pull over and take in the view. There was no place flat enough to put down the kickstand even if I was willing to get that close to the edge.

The frightening part of the ride ended by Red Lodge. I was able to open up the throttle and with the rain letting up, I started drying out a bit. I finally arrived in Billings and found my motel. Once all my gear was stored in the room I changed into dry clothes and found an Irish pub with Guinness and Corned Beef with Cabbage for dinner. This helped put a long cold ride into long-term memory. I look forward to another long sleep.

Day 6: Craig, CO to Jackson, WY

I give my highest recommendation to the Hampton Inn & Suites in Craig, CO. As I was getting Trigger loaded up the five Harley riders surrounding Trigger were fascinated by a Ducati on a long distance tour. We had many questions. I was very good not to denigrate the antiques they were riding. Please! I have four electronically selectable riding modes that select different suspensions, traction control, anti-lock braking, and engine mapping on the fly. It reminded me of Star Trek: First Contact when Zefram Cochrane's spots the Enterprise back from the 24th Century.

This was a long day through bleak country. Heading north out of Craig I ran across the old Overland Trail from Missouri to Oregon. I cannot imagine how the pioneers made it across the desert with only oxen or horses to pull their wagons. It seems like this country goes on forever.

You can still see the ruts from the wagon trains that rolled through here.

There is no place between Craig and I-80 to rest except for these Points of Interest. So the first gas station on I-80 could not come soon enough. As I pulled in a couple on a Harley bagger were being chatted up by some guy in shorts and polo shirt. Apparently he was impressed by the fact they would trust their lives to this crappy contraption. As I was pulling off my helmet I hear Mr. Preppy comment on how bright my helmet was. The Harley rider says, "Its to they can find his head." I wanted to respond that he and I had the same theory on helmets. Only spend as much on a helmet as you think your head is worth. But I kept my mouth shut, cleaned the bugs of the faceshield, used the facilities, got a bottle of water and headed on down the road. With my luck Wyoming is a Stand Your Ground state, and shooting a person who is disparaging your ride is considered self-defense.

I got off I-80 in Rock Springs and pulled in for gas behind a van with a Jayhawk in the back window. It turns out the wife in the family attended KU Law School the same time I was in graduate school. And she took Larry Wrightsman's Psychology and the Law class. So we had a class together! Small world, huh? No one else in the van were KU alums, or even fans. So they were trying to hustle Mom back in the van before we started the Rock Chalk Chant:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h51be27dN8c

The road north from Rock Springs to Pinedale is pretty desolate, but the traffic from all the fracking reminded me of home. Lots of big tanker trucks speeding through the desert. I got behind one and let him clear out any police radar for me. But once I hit Pinedale the scenery improved. The last fifty miles into Jackson is through the Snake River Canyon. There were not any safe places to pull off and take pictures, but I had the video going. Unfortunately, I cannot get the video to upload to the blog. If you come around the house when I get back I'll show you the videos from the whole trip.

Jackson is a tourist trap. I got an room at an old '50's style motel where I could park Trigger right in front of the door. Made unloading Trigger a lot easier. The room was nice, but because it was in Jackson, it was way overpriced.

I took a brief walk around the historic downtown square, ran into another Jayhawker, found a place to eat, then headed back to the room. I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. I did not even get the chance to post to my Walden class. I must have slept nearly 12 hours. And tomorrow will be a long day, too. Not so many miles, but slow miles through Teton and Yellowstone National Parks.

Day 5: Glenwood Springs to Craig

The weatherman says that rain is coming in from east to west, so I'm altering my trip to avoid it. I was planning on riding the Colorado River Road to McCoy, then north to Steamboat Springs, then east to Craig. But my new path takes me west to Rifle, then north on CO 13, through Meeker to Craig. I stopped at the Wally World in Rifle to get WD-40, chain lube, and a cheap tooth brush to clean the chain on Trigger when I get off the road today. When I got back on Trigger, I the GPS wouldn't boot. I hope its a fuse. I haven't used GPS on the motorcycle before, but I've gotten used to getting directions in unfamiliar places. But it will be a short ride today. I wasn't expecting was how beautiful the ride from Rifle to Craig would be. None of my motorcycle maps or any others mark this as an interesting road. It should!

We're headin' into them thar mountains:

Later I was able to call on some locals, but apparently no one was at home.

I just came through some sweepers that were a lot of fun.

And the road ahead looks interesting.

I got to Craig before 2 p.m. The general manager of the Hampton Inn & Suites here is a motorcycle rider and has left standing orders to allow bikes to be parked under the awning in front of the motel. And he had a bucket of cleaning supplies for bikers to clean their rides. How rider friendly is that! And they have directed me to the Holiday Inn Express across the parking lot for a good steak and bar. Perfect! Trigger got his chain cleaned and will stay on the center stand while Papa gets a steak and beer at the Holiday Inn!

Day 4: Gunnison to Glenwood Springs

It was hard getting up and out of the motel this morning. I was up late grading papers and tired after the rough riding through the rain the previous day. I had planned on riding Cottonwood Pass to Buena Vista, but after my experience in the dirt, I switched my route through Monarch Pass because its all asphalt. Here is a view on the way up toward Monarch Pass.

The ride was great. There were several places for passing slow cages and I got to the summit to find a familiar sign. Once again we are crossing the Continental Divide.

From Monarche Pass I rode east to Poncha Springs and caught US-285 north. As I was leaving Buena Vista I say a strange bike in my rear view. It has one fog light out. And it was keeping up with me. So when I turned off US-285 onto CO-28 for Independence Pass, I pulled off when he also turned to tell him his light was burned out. But he blew right past me on a BMW K1600GT. Now the race was on! I didn't try passing him, but he never pulled away from me all the way up the mountain. He finally pulled over at the top of Independence Pass.

Mike lives in Austin and was riding to Snowmass. Who would guess a couple of Texans would run into one another this far from home on two wheels? Just a couple of good ole boys flyin' around on exotic motorcycles. We rode into Aspen, stripped off the rain gear we put on at the summit, then Mike turned off to Snowmass, and I continued on into Glenwood Springs.

Once into the motel I was directed to the 19th Street Diner where they had an amazing local brew and a pretty good turkey sandwich with Hatch chilli and cheeze! This is where I texted my IPA buddies should meet. The only disappointment was the internet at the motel kept kicking me off, so I couldn't up-date the blog. But it was a nice room. I parked Trigger right in front of the door and there were several other bikers nearby. We all kept an eye on our rides while talking about where we had come from and where we were going. And beer was consumed, if you can believe that.

Day 3: Farmington to Gunnison

This day started out great. Got up early because Doug & Suzy were heading out.

The ride into Durango was beautiful. Temp was mid-70's and the traffic was light.

 I stopped in Durango to use the facilities and grab a cup of coffee. I know its a tourist trap, but I really like this town. The lady at the visitor center was really nice and asked lots of questions about Trigger. Asking me questions about Trigger is like asking most of my peers about their grandchildren. LOL Do you think Trigger has my DNA?

I ran into Suzy & Doug in Silverton. They were picking up Doug's brother and sister-in-law who had ridden the train from Durango. They threatened to take out a restraining order on me if I continued to stalk them.

I also ran into a guy on a BMW 1150GS. This is BMW's version of Trigger a few years ago. He was an engineering prof. at Kansas State! We talked awhile and he recommended an easy off road ride for me to test my skills before I tried anything too hard. There is a turnoff just north of Ridgeway through Owl Creek Pass and comes out on US-50 east of Cimarron. So I tried it, but half way through it started raining...HARD.

Now I can't even get off Trigger to put on my rainsuit because the road was too soft to support Trigger on the kickstand. I'm absolutely soaked to the bone until I get to US-50 and can switch into my rain gear. The ride into Gunnison was delayed by mudslides and construction delays. When I got into Gunnison all I wanted to do was strip out of the wet clothes, take a hot shower, and find some food. Unfortunately, I also had to grade papers for my online class as well. It was nearly 4 a.m. by the time I hit the pillow. Trigger was a very dirty boy.

This is not how vacation is supposed to go. But I've decided not to plan trips on dirt and gravel roads anymore. I can do it, but it isn't any fun.

Day 2: Albuquerque to Farmington

I got a late start to Farmington, but it was a short ride. I tried to upload video from my ride, but the internet in motels won't have any of it. We will have to get along with pics.

I stopped in Cuba for a Subway sandwich and was able to park Trigger under a tree for some much needed rest. He has been performing admirably.

I will be seeing this sign a lot on the way north. I will be crossing and re-crossing the Continental Divide several times. HEY MA! LOOK AT ME! I'M ON TOP OF THE WORLD!

When I got to Farmington there was a cold brew and hot ribs waiting for me. I wish my cousin Susie ran the B&B at the end of every day.

Tomorrow will be tougher. I'll be trying to tackle some gravel.

Day 1: Andrews to Albuquerque

I was hoping to get on the road at sun up to avoid the worst of the daytime heat. But I was not ready as fast as I thought I could. It was 8:30 a.m. before I got on the road, then half way around Mustang Drive I realized I had not closed the garage door. Whoops! Turn around, close the door, lock up the house. Wound not want to come home and find my wide screen HD TV gone.

Trigger is all loaded and anxious to get on the road. It is amazing that I could load that much gear on the back of the bike.

I came up on a couple of BMW GS adventure tourers (Michigan plates) while waiting for traffic to clear in road construction between Plains and Roswell. I thought we would hit it off since we both were riding adventure tourers. But these guys had knobbies on and could not keep up with Trigger. I imagine the vibration would shed a few pounds off them. They caught up with me in Roswell traffic, but do not seem interested in riding together. Oh well, they are only Beemers.

Stopped at the rest stop between Roswell and Vaughn to give my butt and Trigger's a rest.

Cline"s Corner!

Got into Albuquerque in good time. Beat the rush hour traffic. Don't stay at at the Nativo. Coke machines are empty and a 12-oz coke at the bar is $3. I'm meeting my cousin Rick for the first time in thirty years. When I was moving from SoCal to Kansas I blew a tire near Albuquerque. He helped me get back on the road. It is terrible that I've let so much time lapse without seeing him.

Tomorrow I head out for Farmington to see Suzie and Doug. Look out Farmington!

Setting the Stage

A week away and I'm getting anxious about getting on the road. I got a new Ducati Multistrada 1200S Touring last winter intending to ride it to Canada. This will be my fourth motorcycle tour to Canada, but the first to take me off paved roads.

Trigger, the beautiful steed taking me to the Great White North on roads less traveled.

I have been adapting Trigger for the trip for several months. First I added stone guards to the radiator and oil cooler. The header guard was a headache. Although it only involved removing one screw, that screw was Excalibur. Shout out to Vampliers for making a fine product for removing stripped screws. I then moved on to adapting my older Garmin car GPS for the motorcycle. It was easy to find GPS mounts for the handlebars, but getting power to it was tricky. But quickly solved by tapping into the power outlets intended for heated clothing. Given the triple-digit temperatures we are suffering of late, I doubt I'll need them to keep warm. I had one waterproof bag and got another from Aerostich (http://www.aerostich.com/), along with straps to keep them secured to the back of Trigger, and a new pair of elkskin ropers to keep my hands safe and dry. My final purchase for this adventure is the way I will document it. I got a ContourROAM video camera that mounts to my helmet. I'll be posting my videos as I progress on my sojourn.

One July 10, 2013, I will leave Andrews, TX. My first stop is Albuquerque to spend the night. It also affords me to catch up with my cousin Ricky. I am limiting my daily rides to about 350 miles to afford for pictures and recirculating the blood pooling in my butt. Don't get me wrong. Trigger has a great saddle, but it does not allow for moving around. Besides, he's a vain mount that wants to be in nearly every picture. And I will attempt to accommodate.