Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Rocky Mountain High Tour, 2014

WOW! It's been a year since last I posted to this blog. So it looks like time to review last summer's tour. It started early in the morning of June 23rd. Eddy showed up at my home on his Kawasaki Concours. The first day was a hard ride through the Panhandle to Raton Pass and end in Pueblo, Colorado. The motel was close to the highway and a welcome sight for two sore butts. The picture doesn't show it, but we had just ridden through a thunderstorm cell. Although we got soaked, the bikes got a nice cleaning. So the first task (take care of your ride before anything else) was already done. We found pizza and a liquor store around the corner had some tasty brew for dinner.


The next morning we checked out a marijuana dispensary on the way out of town. We discovered that dispensaries could be spotted by the use of the green cross regardless of what the sign says on the door. We were driving through around 9 a.m. and there were already a lot of cars in the parking lot. This social experiment in Colorado seems pretty popular. I think it is a case of the genie got out of the bottle and it won't be easy or even possible to ever get it back in.


Eddy needed a replacement face shield on his helmet so we swung through Florence to find one at a motorcycle dealer. Although they didn't have any for Eddy's brand of helmet, we were impressed with the sculpture in front of the shop.

From Florence we headed north through the hills to Cripple Creek. Although the paper map makes the trip look easy, the GPS was not so competent. We missed a turn and ended up in a charming little wide spot in the road that looked like American Pickers' heaven.


Although the ride to Cripple Creek was a ball, the town was a disappointment. It is wall-to-wall casinos with a few restaurants thrown in for good measure. After eating lunch we hit the road for Manitou Springs where we would spend the night. We had hoped to ride up Pike's Peak, but it seems we choose to visit during the Pike's Peak Hill Climb time trials. So we jumped back on the bikes and headed north through the Front Range.

We stopped for a rest north of Woodland Park. The scenery was so beautiful. A few miles down the road we came across a cafe where we got ice cream cones. 


While we were sitting on the patio we noticed hummingbirds were flocking around the feeders. I'd never seen hummingbirds so courageous to be within a few feet of humans.


After lunch at a biker bar in Bailey, we continued north. Along the way we stopped in Central City just north of I-70. Again, lots of casinos in these little towns in the mountains.

The scenery from Central City to Estes Park, our overnight stop, was one eye-popping view after another. Here's a sample.

Estes Park has become a major tourist mecca. But along with tourists come more sophisticated fare, such as this tasty amber brew.


The next morning we rode up to the summit of Sundance Mountain. Looking backward we spied some epic views of the valley where Estes Park is situated.

We came across some of our less enlightened two-wheel travelers on the way up the mountain. Eddy and I were amused with the fact these Harley riders were having difficulty getting up the mountain. How does a motorcycle overheat in 40-degree temps?

Finally we made the summit and stopped for t-shirts at the tourist shop.

On the backside of the mountain we came across the source of the Colorado River. It is hard to imagine that this small stream will carve out the Grand Canyon in about 700 miles. Unfortunately, we didn't stop for pictures, but there are a ton of great photos of the area in Google Maps. We continued south through Winter Park and stopped at the summit of Loveland Pass.

We continued south, through Breckenridge and Fairplay and ended in Buena Vista for the night. While sitting on a patio in front of the motel drinking some local Colorado brew a father and daughter who were hiking across Colorado walked up. They were staying at the same motel for the night after deciding they didn't want to camp in the rain that night. We traded beer for stories...we got the better end of the deal.

The next morning we headed north to Twin Lakes. These lakes lie at the bottom of Independence Pass that leads us, eventually, into Aspen.


Independence Pass


Aspen looked too expensive to even stop, so we rode on down to Carbondale for lunch before turning south again, toward McClure Pass.

From McClure we turned off at Hotchkiss to follow Highway 92 along the north rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

We spent that night in Gunnison. I warn anyone traveling through this area to avoid staying in Gunnison. Although they have many motels, none of the decent motels are affordable. I suggest riding up the hill to Crested Butte. In the summer there are plenty of resort rooms available for reasonable rates.

The next day we headed east toward Salida. I had wanted to ride over Cottonwood Pass. But nearly half of it is unpaved, and Eddy's Concours is low slung, so it didn't seem prudent. Instead we took Monarch Pass into Salida.


From Salida we turned south through Alamosa and crossed the New Mexico state line on US-285 and US-64 that runs into Taos. If you ever go through Taos you MUST stop at Eske's Brew Pub and Eatery. The Hatch Chili Stew is to die for!


Our next accommodations were the historic Plaza Hotel in Las Vegas, NM. Does anyone recognize the door we parked in front of on the Plaza?
It turns out that the plaza in Las Vegas is the setting for the sheriff's office in the television series, Longmire. I'm a fan of the show, but one of the few because A&E dropped it. I hear Netflix is picking it up, but they have yet to start shooting.

The next day was like our first: a fast ride home. The ride from Roswell, NM to Plains, TX was a killer. It was hot and the wind was blowing in our faces. When we finally pulled into Andrews, Eddy needed gas and I needed a cold shower. We talked of what we'd seen over the previous 6 days and were amazed. I love riding in the mountains, so I'm planing another ride next summer. But after returning home, I had to prepare to take my sweetie out on the road in only two days. This time in the minivan! But that's another story.

Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Summer 2014: the Colorado High Country

The new year brings anticipation of the rides I want to take this year. Last night, my good friend Eddy came by and we started discussions. We've decided to spend a week in July at altitude in Colorado. The exact route has not been nailed down, but we will hightail it from the Permian Basin to Pueblo, CO the first day. That is about 530 miles according to Google Maps.



After that we will reduce the number of miles each day to around 200 to allow us to enjoy the rides, take photographs, and reduce the strain on our 60+ year old bodies. The second day I want to ride to the top of Pike's Peak. When Deb and I last visited Colorado Springs we attempted to go up, but rain at the base of the mountain was a couple feet of snow at the summit. We were turned away by Forest Rangers about half way up the hill. I sincerely hope the weather is good because I want to spend a lot of time in the high passes and summits available to motorcycles in the summer.



After Pike's Peak we will ride the Peak-to-Peak highway, Colorado 119 and 72, up to Estes Park.



 From Estes Park to Leadville for the next day's ride.



The fifth day will be a stunner. Leadville to Independence Pass, Carbondale, then south to Hotchkiss and finally down to the Black Rock of the Gunnison and finish the day in Gunnison.



The sixth day has us go over Cottonwood Pass to Buena Vista, then south on US-285 to Taos,  and end the day in Las Vegas, NM.



The seventh day we head for home.



Friday, December 13, 2013

Some housekeeping

I've been stuck in the house the last few days while workers shuttle through putting a new roof on and fixing the ceiling after we discovered water damage due to the old roof. But it was a chance to get my summer ride recorded on the blog.

One issue left over from the summer was the oil leak from the front forks. I picked up the leak while riding through road repairs in Yellowstone on the way up to Canada. I tried to get it repaired up there, but the Ducati dealership in Saskatoon didn't have the parts. On the way back I tried to get it repaired in Albuquerque, but they didn't have the right size fork seals either. And they suggested it wouldn't be covered under warrantee. Does it seem strange that this would happen to an adventure tourer with less than 3K miles on it?

Shortly after getting back, I was up for the 7,500 mile maintenance. I live in the black hole of Ducati dealerships. The Albuquerque, El Paso, Austin, and Fort Worth dealerships are all roughly 350 miles away from my home. I had planned on returning to Albuquerque since my aunt lived there and I could get free lodging overnight. But I didn't feel appreciated as a customer there. And my wife was going to Austin on business, so I could spend the night with her while Trigger was getting all his innerds checked. I also decided to upgrade the suspension CPU. Ohlins recently introduced a semi-active suspension upgrade similar to the Skyhook suspension introduced on the 2013 Multistrada. This is only $300 and is just a plug-and-play installation.

The ride into Austin was great. I got to ride RM-1431 from just west of Buchanan Lake, through Mable Falls, and ends at U.S. 183 in north Austin. It has some of the best twisties in Texas. I had called ahead to schedule my maintenance and it turned out to be one of my better ideas. The maintenance manager was able to determine the leaking fork seal was covered under warrantee, had the Ohlin's CPU in stock, and a technician ready to get on the bike right away. I didn't arrive until nearly 4 p.m., so I wasn't expecting to get Trigger back until the next day. So Amanda, the sales associate at Ducati Austin gave me a ride to the hotel where I was staying with my wife. Austin Ducati makes me feel their appreciation for my business. I don't know if it was because I bought my Multistrada from them, or if they are just more appreciative of my business, but now I won't take Trigger anywhere else for service.

The next day I was told the front tire was nearly unusable. I might be able to get home, but I'd need to ride carefully. So I went ahead and had a new Pirelli Scorpion Trail on the front. While this was going on I was getting bored so I asked Amanda if I could test ride a Hyperstrada while I was waiting. Bingo! Why of course I could. I'm a valued customer! I flogged that little beast around Austin for a couple hours. It is a miniature version of the Multistrada. It would handle dirt better because it is lighter, but it wouldn't be much good for distance touring. The seat is not going to provide adequate support for a 500 mile/day trip.

Well, I got Trigger back later. But it was already getting dark, so back to the hotel for the night. I found covered parking at the hotel in the corner where no cage driver could damage it except purposely. Locked down, I felt Trigger was safe for the night and my wife and I took in some fine dining and a movie. The next morning we both left Austin at first light. My wife flew Southwest back to Midland while I retraced my route coming into Austin, including RM-1431.

I haven't done much riding since then because the weather has been ugly. But I get out at least once a week so I don't have to winterize Trigger. It looks like this weekend may be nice. I've heard of a group of riders that congregate at a convenience store/gas station in Odessa on Sundays. This might be the time to get out of the house now that the repairs are finished.

Rock Chalk, y'all!

Thursday, December 12, 2013

Albuquerque to Andrews: Lessons Learned

The weather continued to be dicey. With morning cool and breezy and thunderstorms picking up in the afternoon. The ride to Cline's Corner was quick. And then south, all the way to Artesia before heading back east toward Hobbs and then Andrews. I could see the storm clouds building in the southwest all day. And when I got to Eunice I pulled out my iPhone and pulled up the Hi-Def Radar app. It should two cells of thunderstorms moving from south to north across my path home. The first one was tracking a little further west than the second. The first would cross my path half way between Eunice and Andrews, while the second was bearing right down in Andrews. I caught the tail end of the first storm, and just made it into the garage before the second struck.

Home at last!

It's been an adventure. A lot of lessons learned on the ride:
          Don't go off the paved roads if it looks like rain.
          Keep some slack in your plans so you can ride around the weather.
          Keep everything strapped down tight in waterproof bags. The Ortlieb Dry Bags worked perfectly.
          Put the items most likely needed while on the road at the top of the stack. And the item most needed will always be your rain suit.
          The GPS is a lifesaver....literally! I would still be lost in Owl Creek Canyon if it hadn't been for the GPS. And it guided me to my motel in every strange city I stopped for the night.
          Book all your motel rooms in advance. Don't rely on Providence to provide you a motel room when you need it. You have to get off the road before the critters come around.
         Ibuprofen is the rider's best friend. Take two every four hours to keep all the aches and pains at bay. It is much more enjoyable when you don't feel your age any more than necessary. Whiskey and a hot tub are your next best friends at the end of the day. When booking your room, spend a couple more bucks to get a motel with a hot tub.
         Don't forget to pack your swimming trunks in a ziplock bag. In fact, pack everything in ziplock bags, then in the Ortlieb bags. It is easier to get items out if everything is in its own bag.

The most important lesson is never stop riding! If $2 of gasoline is as therapeutic as $200 of counseling, then two weeks on tour is liking finding the fountain of youth. When non-riders tell you your crazy for riding a motorcycle, tell them your sanity depends on riding a motorcycle.

Las Vegas and an unexpected stop in Albuquerque.

This was supposed to be the final day of my tour. I was getting a bit saddle sore. So I thought I'd stop at PJ's Motorcycles in Albuquerque to have the oil leak in the front forks that had been nagging me since Yellowstone looked at. The repairs manager was a nice enough guy, but did not think the leak was covered under warrantee. He said it was a "consumable" and I would have to pay for it. Fortunately, he didn't have the right fork seal to replace mine, but said I was safe to ride Trigger home and get the seal replaced at a later date. But he did point out my rear tire needed to be replaced. I thought it looked pretty good, until at closer inspection, there was some bare areas. I had planned on getting Pilot Road 3s put on for the next set of tires, but PJ's did not have any in stock. So I put another Pirelli Scorpion Trail on the rear.

By this time it was getting late, so I booked a room at the local Motel 6 just down the road. I  used Booking.com and got the room for $15! For only $15 I'd sleep in a locker. But it was a decent room, clean, and right next to a Waffle House. I felt like Tin Cup having breakfast there.

The positive side of this unscheduled stop was the opportunity to spend the afternoon with my Aunt Daisy. I had not seen her since my mother's funeral in January.

Colorado Springs to Las Vegas, NM

By morning the sky around Colorado Springs looked much more inviting.


After loading my gear on Trigger we headed south on I-25. It was not going to be an adventure today. Just 250 miles of four lane slab. The rains from the previous two days had driven the temperatures down, so riding was pleasant, albeit, boring. North of Las Vegas I pulled into a rest stop and found good examples of xeroscaping that might be useful at home.


After I left the rest stop I noticed storm clouds building to the west and my aversion to adverse weather was again building.


Fortunately I made it into Las Vegas before the storm crossed my path. And these storms stayed north of town so Trigger didn't get wet. I was a little peeved that the Holiday Inn Express would not let me park Trigger under the overhang in front of the hotel. This was the only motel on my trip that did not extend that courtesy. I'll remember that when I book reservations in the future. I did find excellent food and beverage in Las Vegas. Anyone going through the town should hit Dick's Pub and Restaurant, 705 Douglas Ave. The smothered burrito was to die for... and I probably will.


Abort, Abort, Abort...Fort Collins to Colorado Springs

The plan for this section of the ride home was to take the Peak-to-Peak highway south out of Estes Park. But the traffic started backing up on the ride out of Loveland to Estes Park. Then clouds started building up and I worried I get into heavy weather in the mountains. It was bad enough the previous day on the Interstate Highway. I did not want to deal with this kind of weather when I could end up going off the side of a mountain. So I turned around and headed back to Loveland and I-25, then south through Denver and finally my motel in Colorado Springs.


This shot from my motel winder of Pike's Peak shows the weather I rode through even to get to Colorado Springs.

This weather eventually turned into the huge floods Colorado suffered from in August 2013. Here is a picture of the damage to the road I was riding up to Estes Park before I decided to turn around.




Another catastrophe averted because I kept an eye on the sky. Next year I'll try this again. But my ride through Owl Creek on the way north served as a warning to me. Riding in the rain is another level of hazard. Don't take on more than once hazard at a time.